Two dozen beds cut into the paths, planted thick enough that the kitchens can take from them every morning without the garden looking picked over. The perennials — thyme, sage, oregano, bay — hold through the winter and get cut back hard in spring. The basil and dill go in fresh each year and are gone by the first frost.

At The Smokehouse
Oregano, thyme, and sage go into the dry rub, cut here and dried in bunches rather than bought in tins. The sage also goes into the sausage, which is the one thing on the menu where you can taste a single herb instead of the blend.

At The Greenhouse
Basil and mint come in by the handful and get used the same day — basil torn over the flatbreads, mint in the lemonade. Parsley and chives do the quieter work, folded into the dressings or scattered over a plate on the way out.

At The Boathouse
Dill and bay, both for fish. The dill goes over the fried platter and into the tartar sauce; the bay goes into the chowder pot at the start of the day and gets fished back out before service.